PROTECTING VALUABLE TEXTILES: Clothes Moths

November 2, 2026

How these collections are insured and cared for is just as important as knowing their value. 

Depending on the insurer, the nature of the collection and the sums involved, cover may be subject to particular requirements or recommendations around valuation, inventories, photographs, security and storage. Costume and historic textiles can be especially vulnerable to light, humidity, insects, handling and inappropriate storage, while embroidery, feathers, sequins and complex couture construction may require specialist conservation. High-value handbags and accessories bring different considerations, including security, careful storage and maintaining their condition. Original invoices, photographs, correspondence, authenticity documents, labels and exhibition histories should also be retained, as they can help establish provenance, support a valuation and assist in the event of a claim.

Maintaining accurate records is therefore an important part of caring for a collection. Gurr Johns clients can use Art Metadata, its secure cloud-based collection management platform, to catalogue and track objects, store images and provenance documentation, and retain valuation histories in one place. The platform can be used to record fine art and other valuables, including textiles. For fine art, it also provides access to a global price database containing more than 6.5 million auction records, supporting market research and comparison.

Digital records are only one part of responsible collection care. The physical condition of valuable textiles also requires close attention, particularly because some of the most damaging threats can initially go unnoticed. 

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A Year-Round Risk

One of the greatest threats to these masterpieces isn't a catastrophic fire or a high-stakes heist, it is the humble, hungry clothes moth.

In the UK, these textile-munching pests are no longer just a springtime nuisance. Thanks to modern central heating, moth season is now practically year-round, but the absolute worst times to be aware of are the peak breeding windows between August to October. It is the larvae, rather than the adult moths, that cause the damage. They feed on natural fibres and favour dark, undisturbed areas, meaning an infestation may not immediately be apparent.

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Warning Signs

Helping your clients spot the warning signs early can prevent devastating losses. Advise them to look out for:

  • Irregular holes in natural fibres like cashmere, silk, and wool.
  • Webbing or tiny white cocoons hidden in the dark, undisturbed folds of fabrics or underneath heavy rugs.
  • A gritty residue (frass) that looks like fine sand, which is a telltale sign of active larvae.

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Protecting Valuable Textiles

Prevention is always the finest insurance policy. Clients should regularly vacuum underneath heavy furniture, store pristine couture in sealed garment bags, and avoid putting away clothes that have been worn, as moths are drawn to residual sweat and oils.

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When Damage Occurs

Should the worst happen and a prized textile falls victim to an infestation, don't panic. Gurr Johns’ sister company, Hatfields, specialises in the expert restoration of moth-damaged textiles, seamlessly reviving delicate weaves and fabrics. Furthermore, Gurr Johns can assist you with precise loss-of-value valuations to ensure claims are settled accurately and fairly.

Keep your clients' collections safe, and remember: an ounce of moth prevention is worth a pound of couture cure!

If you would like to be in touch, please contact: 

  • To discuss a valuation, please contact Gurr Johns 
  • For restoration advice, please contact Hatfields

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